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A Trip to Hippydom
Goa, India
January, 2005
Goa is world renowned for it's hippie sub-culture. People have been flocking there since the 60's for the beaches and psycadellia.
I decided to go to Anjuna, which is one of the bigger towns that have a beach. I could have taken the train, but went for the sleeper bus from Bombay. We departed the Metro Cinema at 7:00PM and arrived in Mapsa (about 10 KM from Anjuna) the next day at 11:00AM.
It was quite the ride. The price of the ticket was about $10. I got an upper sleeper bed and paid the extra 300Rs ($7.50) so I wouldn't get a bedmate. The double bed is only about 3 feet wide and I couldn't imagine what it would be like to share.
The traffic around Bombay was crazy. The first 4 hours of the trip were in Bombay alone. After that it opened up, but the roads are so bad that I don't think we ever went over 60KM/hour. Bumpy, but comfortable enough in my double.
Upon arriving in Mapsa, you have to secure your own ride to Anjuna. But not to worry, there about 50 touts that meet the bus to "Help" you find a ride. First the taxi guys, "Friend, where you go, come with me, best price, 150Rs to Anjuna."
Way too much. When I pushed my way through the taxi guys, the Tuk Tuk drivers then accosted me. "Friend where you go? I give you best price, 80Rs to Anjuna."
Still not sure. I saw some other more seasoned Goa travelers blowing off all the touts and making there way to the public bus. Even though the bus only cost 4Rs, it was so packed that I feared for my guitar so I decide to check out the Motorcycle taxis.
"Friend, come with me, I give you best price, 50Rs to Anjuna. Ok then, I had enough so I hopped on the cycle.
Of course, I had never been to Anjuna and did not know what to expect. It was a 20-minute ride on the little bumpy road. Along the road were a few little villages with cafes, hotels and shanties, but mostly it was just fields and jungle.
On the way we discussed my accommodations which I had no idea about. "I know cheap place close to beach."
I never trust the taxi guys. When we arrived in Town, he stopped at a small place called St. Anthony's Guest House, which seemed to be in the middle of nowhere. I could see some sort of little town down the street, but no beach.
Unsure of the location, I asked the taxi guy to show me the beach. On the way, we drove through the little town. Anjuna is small, but there were several restaurants and shops. The ocean was only another quarter of a mile down the road.
We arrived at the end of the road and the guy pointed down to the water. There was no beach, just a sandstone cliff leading down to the water and rocks along the shoreline.
"This is the beach?" I question.
"Yes, you see the water."
"But it's just rocks? Where is the beach?"
"No good beach in Anjuna. Lots of parties, but no good beach. Better beach in Baga."
"How far is that?" I continue.
"Only 15KM, I take you?"
This was getting to be a bit too much. "Scam," I think to myself.
"How about these hotels near the water, how much are they?" I ask smiling.
"Very expensive. More than 400Rs, the place I show you only 150Rs."
The hotel he first showed me was only about 1KM from the supposed beach, so I decided to go back. I was burnt from a night on the road and decided if I didn't like it in Anjuna, I could go to Baga the next day.
He drove me back to St Anthony's; they had a vacancy, so I paid the taxi guy 50Rs and the proprietor show me to the room. It was great, ensuite toilet and shower, really good for 150Rs. I met a nice Israeli couple on my way in. They were sitting out in front of their room and invited me for tea.
I dropped my bags off and returned. We had some black tea and after normal backpacker introductions (where from/to, nationality and how long will you stay), I asked them what there was to do in Anjuna. The girl answered.
"We basically chill out. We relax, smoke a few joints, and sometimes go to the beach. Were both taking a yoga class that starts tomorrow. There is a really great master here, X, do you do yoga?"
"No, ah no, I don't do Yoga."
They were somewhat taken aback. "Well, what are you going to do while your here?" she continued.
"I have no idea."
I was starving, so I said farewell to the Israelis and walked into town. On the way I passed the taxi stand crossroad, home of the Anjuna touts. "Taxi, you need taxi?"
"No."
"How about bike, you want to rent bike"
"No."
"Smoke? Marijuana, Hashish, Opium, what you like?"
"Nothing, please."
I went through this conversation many times in my few days in Anjuna.
After breakfast I walked towards the ocean. Upon arriving at the rocks, I walked south on a little road that was lined with little shops.
"Friend, please look, cheap for you!" they would plead as I passed. This little route was also filled with drug dealers.
Finally I passed one final hotel and stumbled upon the beach. The beach was not too bad. It is about 2Km long and lined with hotels and cafes. I walked to the end and back and checked out the crowd.
The westerners rented lounge chairs and smoked big joints. A hippie crowd with lots of dreadlocks and tied die. Definitely European. The girls wore bikinis and almost every one had a tattoo. Most of the guys wore Speedo's. There was Indian tourists too. They wore long pants and saris. They took pictures and ate picnic lunches. Not many people went into the water and I couldn't blame them.
I was really surprised about the condition of the water. Everywhere I have been along the Indian Ocean has clear blue water. In Goa, the water is muddy brown. It actually seemed a bit scary. I never did go swimming.
After checking out the beach, I went back to my hotel to read and rest. It was Friday night, but I was burnt and decided not to go out that evening. I went out for dinner, returned to my room, read (Don Quixote) and crashed out.
My first impression of Goa was not that great. Hippies, touts and dirty water. I wondered what I would do there for even a few days. I noticed all of the foreigners had scooters so I decided the best thing would be to rent one and tour the county side.
The next morning I approached the lady who ran the Guesthouse about a bike. She said she would have one around 7:00PM. I said cool, I'll take it. I had heard about a great night market that evening so I would get the bike just in time to ride there.
I decided to spend my day at the beach reading. I grabbed "Don Quixote" and was on my way. I decided not to rent a lounge and to lie on the sand. After a few hours I went to a cafe, had lunch, and read some more.
While there, I met a couple of British girls who had been in Goa for over a month.
"So what have you been doing while you have been here." I asked.
The blonde one, Carrie, answered, "Nothing much, we were in the south taking a yoga course from Master X, now were are here to spend a few days relaxing."
Carrie was about 23 and travelling with her friend Mindy who seemed to be 18. Mindy had brown dreadlocks, a pretty face and a bit chunky. Carrie had blonde braided bead hair and was cute. They both were decked out in the standard hippie wear, cotton string pants, loose cotton shirts and long scarves. They were both from Bristol.
"Cool, is there anything to do here at night?" I inquired.
Carrie continued, "Well, tonight we are going to a party held by a spiritual guru in the area. There will be readings and chants, followed by a drum ceremony. It will be very spiritual."
"Oh, um, that sounds cool."
They could tell I wasn't so excited. Then Mindy chimed in, "Well, if that's not your thing, there is a fun night market and after that lots of people go to "Paridiso" which is just up the road."
They were really nice. We chatted a bit more and then they left to rest before their big night. The people in Goa are really nice, but it really isn't my kind of place. If you are into new age, yoga, crystal healing and drugs you are in a wonderland. I don't mind smoking a joint now and then, but overall I really didn't fit in.
That night I got my scooter from the guesthouse. No license required and it only cost 100Rs a day. The night market was about 8KM inland so I decided to ride. The traffic in Goa is not that bad, mostly scooters and Tuk Tuks. But, you really need to look out for the Busses that take up the entire road. Luckily, they honk at all times so you are warned well in advance of their presence.
I had a great time at the night market that was really the essence of GOA. I grabbed a beer and strolled around. In the center there was a pavilion with live entertainment. There was about 20 washed up hippies dancing to a cover band that consisted of a arrogant lady who thought she next best thing since Janis Joplin backed up by an acoustic guitar player with a long beard and a goofy smile. They both were in their 50's, and decked out in the highest of hippie fashion. They were both a bit too serious.
"I won't sing another song unless they turn my vocals up!" she loudly stated towards the end of the set. The guitarist looked sternly on and nodded his head. The crowd yelled, "Turn up the vocals, turn up the vocals."
This was a bit too much for me. At that point I wished I had a Mohawk and an Exploited T-shirt.
Europeans locals ran most of the booths. They were selling hippie clothes, jewelry, incense, oils and various kinds of food. There was some booths run by natives, and they were the best. The ladies were decked out in traditional Indian grab and I got some great pictures.
I drank a few beers and had a good time. It was like being suspended in time at an everlasting Grateful Dead Show.
After the market I headed back to Anjuna and hit "Paradiso." Paridiso is the big nightclub in Anjuna. It is multi leveled and is mostly outdoors. When I arrived at 12:00AM, it was way too early for the place. It really didn't get going until around 2:00AM. The cover was 500Rs (ladies for free) which is really a lot considering I was only paying 150Rs for my hotel. This included all you can drink, so I decided to go in anyway.
The place was fairly dead, no matter, I went up to bar and asked for a beer.
iBeer 40Rs,i the barman said.
iBut I thought it was all you can drink?i
iJust spirits.i He replied.
iOK, give me a gin and tonic.i
The bartender then poured me a stiff Gin and Tonic. Then I knew the gig. They only served you really strong drinks. You couldnit drink more than a few without getting hammered. Most of the people in the club were on iXi, and were just drinking water.
The place really started to pick up around 1:00AM and was packed by 2:00AM. They were blaring non-stop house and the dance floor, or maybe best to call it the iTrancei floor was packed. Most of the people were pretty spaced out, but I had a good time dancing and drinking. I was definitely on a different level than most of the people in the club. I lasted until about 3:00AM and then went home. I heard about the after hours sunrise party up on the hill, but I declined.
The next day was my last day in Goa. I decided to take the bus back to Bombay. If the ocean was nicer I would have stayed longer.
It was a great day. I spent the entire day touring around on my scooter. I rode to Baga, Calangute and the Capitol City of Panaji. It was really a great time. You would go from jungle to beach to jungle to city. The traffic wasnit so bad and there were lots of interesting things along the road. I passed temples, old churches, elephants, stray cows, numerous varieties of birds, pilgrims, peasants and parakeets.
The Capitol City was really nice and I stopped there for lunch before I rode back to Anjuna. I had so much fun, I kind of wished I could stay one more day, but it was too late, I already bought my ticket.
Overall, Goa was fun. If it had surf I could stay for weeks. But, since Iim not really into iNew Agei or sitting around smoking dope all day, there really wasnit much for me to do.
No worries. It is well worth visiting and Iim glad I went. If I return, I will hire a scooter, have a little backpack and go the little towns in the south staying a night in each one.
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