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Northern Thailand is Real Fun
Chang Mai, Thailand
December, 2002
Almost a month in Thailand and I finally feel that I'm in a different country. The rest of Thailand (Bangkok and Southern Islands) are so filled with tourists, it's like you are at home (funny thing, I've been traveling for so long that I feel much more at home when everyone around me is speaking a foreign language!). On Sunday nights in Chang Mai they have a big night market/music fair that is right at the city gates. The streets were packed with vendors and Thais with the occasional tourist (farang). Really interesting music. Some traditional Siamese bands, about 7 guys, 4 string and 3 drum, really fine oriental stuff. There was plethora a of "Blind Kareoke Trains" blind Thai singers who wander the street in a straight line, one hand on the mic and the other holding the shoulder of the person in front. The person in the front has a cane to push through the traffic. No sunglasses. A very surreal sight indeed. I wonder how they know where they are going amongst so much chaos. Then you have the token guy on a Korean Fender Strat jamming Hendrix leads. Very interesting and very Thai. When in Chang Mai the Night market is an experience not to be missed (but note that the prices for the average thai crap is cheaper in Bangkok).
Today I had a great time. I rented a motorbike ($3) and rode into the nearby mountains to a Famous Temple Wat Soi Phen and to the Hill Tribe Village of Ho Dun. First off, riding in the traffic of Chang Mai is not for the light hearted. Luckily I have spent alot of time riding around on the streets of Paris so I had the experience needed. Once out of the city and in the hills all was a breeze. First I went to the temple. This Wat was really picturesque, a 400 yard stairway with long dragons as hand rails leading up to the Wat. When visiting a Temple, I have made the habit of visiting the resident Monk (if there is one there) and this temple had a really nice young Monk. He gave me a yarn bracelet and we had a quick chat. First he asked me where I was from. I said California, near San Francisco. Not satisfied he asked "But where do you live now?" I said Paris, France. Without sound he said "Ah". "And where did you get the other bracelet you wear?" I said in the far south of Thailand at the Monkey Temple in Ao Phang Na. He looked at me, barely squinted one of his eyes and said "You are happy man." He the blessed me and sent me on my way. After visiting a monk its always nice to give a donation and as I was sticking 20 baht in the box he looked back at me and said "Thank you, please come again soon." That took away a bit from the experience, but I'm sure he meant it with good heart. Next I was on my way to visit the Mountain Village. It was a little town and the main street was a line of little shops all selling pretty much the same hand made goods. The Hill tribe people were all wearing their traditional garb, but this town is not remote so I'm sure they all have western clothes at home. Regardless I did get some good pictures of the vendors. After buying some cheap presents I was jamming back down the hill passing every car and bus on my trusty Honda 125.
Everyday I'm here I like Thailand more and more and really want to come back soon. Everything is so inexpensive it is incredible. To get to Chang Mai, for instance, I took the Train (2nd class aircon) from Bangkok, an 10 hour ride, meals included, for about $8. Tonight my room (ensuite w/fan) is $4. You can rent a room here TV, Refridge and aircon for $150 a month. Everything is cheap. There are so many beautiful places it really makes me want to move here. And so close to Cambodia and Vietnam which are now prime tourist destinations!!
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